What is the rule of wearing a watch?

Watches come in many different sizes, styles, and materials. Wear one like a pro by understanding foundational watch rules.

Photo by David Em/Next Level Gents.

A watch is an excellent men’s accessory. There are many styles and price ranges. When you’re wearing a watch, the goal is to look dapper.

Related: What’s a watch bezel? Different types and how to use them

However, there are many mistakes that you may be making if you don’t yet know the essential watch-wearing rules.

The following are the rules that you need to know to ensure you look great while wearing a watch.

Wear it on your non-dominant side

While you can wear your watch on either side, the ideal side is the non-dominant one.

If you’re right-handed, wear your watch on your left wrist, and vice versa if you’re left-handed.

Related: 20 best luxury watch brands

It’s more about functionality than it is about looks.

When you’re living your life and doing daily activities, wearing a watch on your dominant side leaves it vulnerable to damage.

You might bump it into something or scratch it. The watch can also get in the way, which can be annoying. That’s why it’s best to wear it on your non-dominant hand.

Place it before your wrist bone

There’s a correct location for your watch. It should sit right before your wrist bone, not below it.

Related: Best chronograph watches and what you need to know

Before understanding this, like the majority of people, I thought a watch was supposed to sit on the wrist bone.

This led to me not wearing a watch at all because it restricted my range of motion and it dug into my hand, which caused pain.

That’s why it’s best to wear a watch before the wrist bone. You’ll be able to freely move your hand, and it won’t cause any pain or get in the way.

Plus, as you start wearing your watch properly, you’ll notice that it looks better at that location on your wrist.

Not too large or small

The right watch size is crucial. The proper case size depends on the size of your wrist.

For a while, extremely large watches were in style. Unless you love the look of a large watch, avoid it.

It’s similar to wearing big and baggy clothing. It just doesn’t look good.

Related: What your watch water resistance numbers mean

Like clothing, there are well-fitting and poorly-fitting watches.

It’s important to wear one that fits you because it ensures that you look your best.

When it comes to the size of a watch, three main factors are most important.

Make sure you pay attention to the case diameter, case thickness, and lug to lug measurement.

The case diameter is typically the first thing that’s mentioned. It’s also the measurement that most people already know and understand.

When you’re looking at the case diameter, whether or not your watch has a bezel makes a difference.

If you take two watches with the same case diameter and one has a bezel while the other doesn’t, you’ll notice that they look completely different.

So, case diameter is important but it’s not the only factor you should consider.

Related: How long should a tie be?

Overall, the best case diameters that’ll fit the majority of people is between 36 and 44mm.

If you have a thinner wrist, in most cases, smaller case diameters, such as 36mm or 38mm look better and with thicker wrists, you’ll be on the larger end of case diameters, such as 42mm and 44mm.

Another important factor is the case thickness. When you’re wearing a watch, the thickness plays a role in how bulky or slim it looks on your wrist.

Lastly and arguably the most important is the lug to lug measurement.

It’s the distance from the top of the lug to the bottom of the lug in millimeters.

A longer or shorter lug to lug distance can make a watch feel and look bigger or smaller.

Typically, it’s not provided. You may have to measure it or dig through other resources to find it.

However, it’s important because it determines how the watch will fit and look on your wrist.

Make sure it has a snug fit

This rule goes hand in hand with the previous one. Instead of focusing on the case of a watch, make sure your watch fits well around your wrist.

Related: 10 best watches under $500

When you’re wearing a watch, it shouldn’t slide up and down.

The watch should fit snug around your wrist, above the wrist bone.

If you have a metal watch, you can take it to the place you bought it at or a watch repair shop to get it fitted.

You can also buy a kit to do it yourself.

Watches that have leather straps are convenient because they’re easy to adjust, making it easy to get the perfect fit.

Also, it’ll be very helpful to measure your wrist and know the circumference.

You can use a tape measure and go around your wrist bone.

Match it with your outfit

When you’re wearing a watch, make sure it’s the right case and strap for the occasion and outfit.

When you’re wearing a suit, stick to a dress watch. Some sleek dive watches work, too.

For everything else, you can wear a dive, chronograph, pilot, or nice field watch.

Also, make sure your metals are matching. If you’re wearing a silver watch, wear a belt with a silver buckle.

With gold watches, wear a belt with a gold buckle. It’s also important to pay attention to the strap.

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Watches with a rubber strap are casual and offer sporty look.

Stainless steel is a great all-around material and leather can be dressed up or down based on the case and design.

When you’re matching your watch with your outfit, you can change your watch strap.

This isn’t something that only smart watches can do. Most watches allow you to change the strap.

All you need to know is the lug width. Then, you can purchase a strap that’ll fit. To change it, you’ll need a spring bar tool.

Burgeon makes an excellent one and it’s around $20 from Amazon.

The ability to change your strap allows you to maximize each case. That way, you don’t have to buy a ton of different watches.

High-quality watches can be expensive, that’s why changing the strap is a great way to save money if you’re not looking to buy another watch.

Don’t wear the same watch every day

If you wear different outfits throughout the week, the same watch won’t match each outfit.

You wear different outfits to work, a party, dinner, and the grocery store. So, your watch should match your outfit.

For example, a watch for the daytime should have a light-colored dial. At night, you can wear one with darker dials.

Begin building a collection of watches. It ensures you have one that pairs well with the different outfits you wear.

Be discreet when you check your watch

When you’re with others, avoid checking your watch. It comes off as rude because it shows that you’re not interested.

Checking your watch shows that you have other things on your mind.

Instead, be present and give people your full attention.

If you need to check your watch, be discreet or excuse yourself.

Frequently asked questions about watches

The following are answers to common questions about watches.

Can you wear a dive watch with a suit?

Dive watches are bulky and don’t look good with a suit. When you wear a suit, the watch should be able to slip under the sleeve. So, stick to slim dress watches with suits and tuxedos.

Is it okay to wear an oversized watch?

Anything over 50mm is considered an oversized watch. Unless it fits your style, avoid wearing one. Most people don’t have wrists large enough to sport an oversized watch. Also, it doesn’t match the proportions of your outfit. So, it’s best to wear watches that fit your wrist.

Should I wear my watch to bed?

When you go to sleep, take off your watch. It can affect your sleep quality and comfort. Also, it can be a distraction that keeps you up. So, go to bed without a watch on your wrist.

Conclusion

Remember, your watch should be on your non-dominant side and sit right before the wrist bone.

The size of the watch also matters. It should fit your wrist well.

Lastly, wear the right watch with the right outfit and occasion.

By following these rules, you’ll look great while wearing a watch.

Featured image by David Em/Next Level Gents.

About David Em

Founder

David Em is the founder of Next Level Gents, the ultimate destination for tips and advice about style, grooming, fitness, and success.

Stylish men know not to wear brown shoes with a black belt, a pre-tied bow tie, or pajamas outside of the house. When it comes to watches people are a little fuzzy about the rules. We often see men wearing a completely inappropriate timepiece for their outfit, or they’re checking the time every five minutes in a meeting.

Knowing the rules of watch-wearing will help you avoid making faux-pas, and they apply to watches that are expensive, inexpensive, casual and formal alike.

Few accessories are as classic as a wristwatch

11. Wear your watch on the wrist that suits you

The old rule of thumb was to always wear a watch on the non-dominant wrist. The reasoning was that it is the opposite of the dominant hand. Don’t let tradition dictate on which hand you wear your watch; wear it where you find it most comfortable.

James Bond wearing a dive watch with a tuxedo

10. Never wear a dive watch with a suit

Just because James Bond did it, doesn’t mean you should. James Bond was a spy who might, in fact, jump into a river in a suit at any moment. As far as we can tell, he’s the only one (besides other actors with endorsement deals with Omega) who should wear a dive watch with a suit. Dive watches are bulky, they don’t fit well under a suit jacket and they are a tell-tale sign that you don’t know the rules of watch-wearing…or that you aspire to have your own theme song. The same way that you wouldn’t wear your sunglasses at night, leave the dive watch for casual wear and pair a simple dress watch with your suit.

Pedro Mendes in navy suit with gray turtleneck sweater, wristwatch and signet ring

9. Wear dark with dark, and light with light

If you’re out during the day consider a lighter colored face such as white or cream. However, at night focus on darker dials such as black, grey or browns. Just like a tuxedo is for evening wear and you wouldn’t wear it to brunch, a dark watch dial should be on your wrist at night, rather than during your 9am tee time at the country club.

Checking your watch in front of others will make them feel like they aren’t a priority

8. Beware the implications of checking your watch

Even though a great watch is one of a man’s ultimate accessories, checking it can have some negative social implications even if that’s exactly the reason you are wearing it!

If you’re on a date, in a meeting, or at a social event, don’t check your watch visibly in front of other people. Just like it’s rude to check your phone at a movie or restaurant, checking your watch shows that you have other things on your mind; things that take precedence over your present company. Unless you’re still young and have a curfew, the only way you should know what time a date is over is when she says goodnight.

A men’s dress watch shouldn’t be worn with a casual, brightly colored short sleeve shirt

7. Pair watches with outfits appropriately

Just as you wouldn’t sit on the beach in a morning coat, you also don’t want to wear your dress watch sailing. Try and match the type of watch you wear to the activity you’re involved in each day. If you’re unsure what you’ll be doing, pair it with your choice of clothes; sport watches with athletic wear, dress watches with business wear, or a simple Timex Weekender with beach wear.

A Rolex Cellini Dress Watch would work with black tie

If you’re invited to a formal event or gathering and the dress code calls for black tie, attitudes have changed about wearing a watch. Historically it is considered impolite to wear a watch, but the rules regarding black tie have softened to accommodate wearing a simple dress watch with a black face and band if you choose. A pocket watch is an alternative. For the rare white tie event, tradition demands that you do not wear a watch at all.

6. Admire other men’s watches from a distance

Just as you would never touch another man’s wallet, don’t expect to handle his watch. For many men the watch is the only piece of jewelry they own or wear, and they take great pride in keeping it dust free, fingerprint free and well polished. It’s perfectly okay to politely ask to see a watch, but don’t expect him to take it off his wrist. If he offers, feel free to accept, but try to handle it as little as possible and never place it on a hard surface where it could get scratched.

An oversized watch will never slide neatly under the cuff

5. The oversized watch is over (it shouldn’t have started to begin with)

For the last couple of years, oversized watches have become the norm in men’s style. This popular trend only served one purpose: to scream for attention. An oversized watch dwarfs your wrist, throws off the proportions of your entire outfit, and simply doesn’t “fit” well into a nicely combined outfit.

For a watch enthusiast, those large dials are nothing more than for show. If you want to be taken seriously in the world of horology, stick to watches that fit your wrist.

A properly sized watch should cover about 2/3 of the width of your wrist

4. Make it fit

Like any other garment or accessory, your watch should fit you properly in two key ways. The size of the dial should be proportional to your wrist, and the band should fit snugly but comfortably. A loose band looks sloppy, so take it to your jeweler to have it sized to your wrist.

Vacheron Constantin is typically known for elegant, high-end watches, but this diamond-encrusted model is a gaudy DON’T

3. Skip the bling

Wearing a diamond encrusted watch is fine if you’re a music mogul, but it has no place in the wardrobe of a well-dressed gentleman. Like an oversized watch, flashy diamonds and jewels are simply a cry for attention. They will distract from the rest of your outfit by drawing all the attention to one point. Most people will be wondering if it’s real, rather than what kind of watch it is. Diamonds and jewels also have the effect of making men’s watches appear more feminine.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony watch with subtle diamond accents

Unless you’re trying to be the next Eminem, skip the diamonds – with one exception. Some dress watches use very fine diamonds or other stones to accent small details, such as the rim of the dial or the numbers on the face. If the stones are subtle and enhance the overall features of the watch without being ostentatious, then they can find a place in a gentleman’s watch collection. Just remember to wear them in appropriate settings and don’t buy sporting watches, as diamonds are not suited to more casual watches.

A cheap watch with fake diamonds – terrible!

Finally, it should go without saying that you should never buy a watch with fake stones. If you can’t afford the real thing, skip stones altogether, as they will only cheapen the overall look and make it painfully obvious that you seek the kind of attention diamonds can bring.

Budget watches can be a great way to increase your collection and give your favorite timepiece a break

2. Don’t wear the same watch every day

Even if you only own one nice watch, you shouldn’t wear it every day for several reasons. First, if the watch is a piece that you love, giving the watch a break will make it last longer. Second, one watch is rarely suited to the variety of outfits that a man will wear in a given week. The office, the gym, sporting events, dinners out, and parties all require different clothes and hence different watches. If you wear the same watch daily, chances are that 20-30% of the time it is the wrong watch to be wearing.

Regardless of your budget, if you love wearing a watch, try building up a small collection of reputable watches that suit all the various needs you have during the week, and give you favorite piece the occasional break.

A gold Cartier watch, Fort Belvedere cufflinks, and a Fort Belvedere collar clip pull together the metal elements of an outfit when worn together

1. Match your metals & colors

Try and match the metals and the colors of the watch to the rest of the outfit you have on. Note the color of your belt buckles, shoe buckles, rings, collar bars or pins, and cufflinks and choose a watch in a matching metal. Wear yellow gold with yellow gold, and don’t wear a brown band when you’re wearing a black suit. Focus specifically on the boldest parts of the watch; the color of the strap, the color of metal and even the color of the dial.

Conclusion

With these rules, watch wearing should be straight forward. What watch faux pas do you see from time to time?